All Posts by Jennifer Faul

The Science of Humidity and how it affects us

Humidity is super-important to our health, and the health of the spaces in which we live (which in turn affect our health).  But do you know how humidity is measured and how it affects us?  

Humidity is the concentration of water vapor in the air.  Necessary to life, we need water in the air we breathe, as well as to drink.  Water vapor hydrates our respiratory pathways and secondarily, enables us to stay warm–or cool.  Humidity is measured in percentage–but a percentage of what?  

Sometimes it’s easier to imagine a liquid, instead of a gas.  If you’ve ever dissolved sugar into water and keep adding sugar, there comes a point where the water will no longer hold any more dissolved sugar–the sugar will lay at the bottom of the container–at that temperature.  In order to dissolve more sugar, you will need to increase the temperature of the water.  This is the saturation point of the water for sugar.  Air works in the same way.  There is a maximum amount of water vapor that the air can hold before–you guessed it–it starts raining.  To increase the amount of water vapor, air temperature must increase.  Warmer air can hold more water vapor than cooler air, the same as warmer water can hold more sugar than cooler water. 

So then, “relative humidity” is the percentage of maximum water vapor the air can hold at a specific temperature.  It’s all “relative” to the temperature.  If you had 2 rooms at the same temperature (say 78 deg F), but one had 60% percent humidity and the other had 40% humidity, the 60% humidity room is holding a lot more moisture in the air, at the same temperature.  It is a noticeable difference.

Humidity is usually higher during summer months.  In the US, we are accustomed to the Heat Index (HI), “a measure of how hot it feels when relative humidity is factored into the air temperature.” (MintLounge, 2020)  But a more accurate picture of the stress heat and humidity have on the body is given by “wet bulb temperature”.  Essentially, a wet "sock" is put over the bulb of a thermometer, and it measures “the lowest temperature to which air can be cooled by the evaporation of water into the air at a constant pressure.... (In contrast) The dry bulb temperature is the ambient temperature. The difference between these two temperatures is a measure of the humidity of the air. The higher the difference in these temperatures, the lower is the humidity.” (Sciencedirect.com, 2007).  It is very important to human life because it governs how evaporation of sweat into the air cools our bodies.  Think of the thermometer in a wet sock as your body covered in sweat.  When wet bulb temperature = ambient temperature, the sweat is not evaporating, because humidity = 100%.  If we dial up the heat, no evaporation allows no heat loss, which causes rapid overheating.  Scientists have marked 95 degrees F (35 degrees Celsius) at the upper limit of survivability: at or above this temperature/humidity combination, the body will overheat, causing organ and brain damage and death.   During this research, I looked at a country that knows heat: India.  India has been suffering with extreme heat for several years now.  2015 saw the country’s fifth deadliest heat wave (2400 people died), and other records were set in 2016 and 2019.  

Compared to the heat index in summer, wind chill is that mystifying element that makes cold northern winter days (usually drier, lower humidity) seem bearable and damp southern winter days seem very chilling!  Higher humidity causes the clothes we wear to retain moisture, which being next to our skin, will wick heat from our bodies, chilling us. 

If then, “feels like” temperature is most important, we can focus on controlling the humidity in our homes along with temperature.  

Humidity is super-important in heating and cooling.  Air kept at lower humidity is less costly to heat and cool.  Why is that?  Going back to the liquid analogy, think of boiling water on a stove or microwave or kettle.  Which takes longer to boil at the same heat level: 1 cup of water, or 3 cups of water?  Three cups, of course!   When trying to cool a humid room, the same principal applies–most of the energy is spent actually changing the temperature of the water vapor in the air.  Therefore lower concentrations of water in the air (lower humidity) takes less energy to cool.  The same thing happens in the winter: overly humid air takes longer (more energy) to heat.  According to energyforum.net, “hot and humid areas use 21.1% of their energy on air conditioning each year, while hot and dry areas only use 9.6% of their energy to air condition.”

Most importantly, the effects of high and low humidity have direct impacts on our health.

Water vapor in the air (humidity) is essential to keeping our nasal passages hydrated.  When the humidity drops low, the air is dry, and nasal passages feel congested because they are dried out and inflamed.  Eyes become irritated because tear production cannot keep up.  Skin becomes dried out, feeling itchy and more susceptible to infection.  In the age of coronavirus, air with low humidity is more hospitable to the spread of the virus in aerosol form (fine droplets that occur when someone sneezes or coughs).  This is because the water entrained with the virus quickly evaporates in dry air, allowing the virus particles to float indefinitely.  Drier virus particles actually survive longer by floating in the air than those encapsulated in heavier water droplets, which fall quickly to the floor. (40to60rh.com)

On the high side, too much humidity is also bad.  Excess water vapor in the air contributes to mold growth, more pests (insects and mites), and structural damage due to mold and rot. 

For many years, the optimal humidity range of indoor environments was 30-50%.  Due to the current coronavirus pandemic, some doctors are petitioning for the World Health Organization to change the recommended range to 40-60% relative humidity (40to60rh.com).  What is the top factor on CNN’s list of ways to prevent flu in your home?  Control humidity!

Humidity is a huge factor for optimizing our home environment, then!  How do we measure and control it?

To measure humidity, sensors like these are cheap and easy to place around your home (this particular type have built-in batteries, but you should check the battery requirements of others before purchase). 

Now–what do I do if I’m below 30%?  Typically, low humidity (below 30%) occurs in winter months when we turn on indoor heat, making skin and nasal passages dry and irritated.  Humidifiers help by introducing moisture into the air.  You can place a portable humidifier in the most-used room during the day, and move it into your bedroom at night for more comfortable sleeping.   If you are not sensitive to fragrance, some humidifiers allow you to add a few drops of essential oils for a pleasant scent.  Whole-home humidifiers can also be installed in your HVAC system.  If you are looking to increase humidity in your home as well as clean the air, you may consider an “air washer”.  This type of unit uses a stack of thin discs to capture dust in the air, which is then “washed” off the disc in a water reservoir.  Clean air that is exhausted from the unit is more humid.  It is a low cost air purifier/humidifier combination that only requires regular addition of water and rinsing out the disc stack.

What do I do if my home is above 60%?  Now this is a more common and complex problem.  Sometimes it is the outside climate coming inside through air leaks, and sometimes it’s a source of water inside the home that can be corrected to bring indoor humidity down.  You can check out our Indoor Moisture Inventory which will walk you through the most common ways to reduce indoor humidity.   If it's still too high after mitigation, you can hire a professional to perform calculations and recommend dehumidifier units, or in this age of DIY, you can actually calculate and research (and install!) units on your own. 

Here is a simple table that takes into consideration the square footage of your home and it’s “tightness” (insulation level and leaks).  According to this, I need about an 8.0 gallon-per-day dehumidifier unit for my 2000 square foot “average” home.   Here are how the measurements are factored into the sizing.   However, since my AC system is older (more than 10 years old), it would most likely be most cost-efficient to replace the whole system with a new system that includes a dehumidifier!  

Humidity control should be a top priority in all of our homes and indoor spaces–why not take some steps today?

Finding and Attacking Mold in the HVAC System

I turned on the AC in my home last spring and a musty smell gave me suspicion that there was mold growing somewhere in the ventilation system.  I determined that I would not stick my head in the sand, hoping it would go away after more use.  I didn’t want mold to be distributed through my house via the HVAC, so I planned a “search and destroy” mission!  

I have to say that I lack fear about a lot of things, but experience has made me a bit more cautious.   I used to reclaim wood and would pick up interesting pieces off the curb.  This resulted in making me violently ill one time when the scavenged wood had black mold on it. Mold is dangerous, so if you think your A/C system has mold, you will want to wear a protective mask (more than a thin cloth or paper mask; N95 is ideal) and wear old clothes: plan to shower, wash hair and launder your clothes afterwards.  If you are highly allergic to mold or just squeamish, this is best left to someone who isn’t.

Timing: You will need to shut down the AC for at least an hour, possibly several.  For this reason, and the fact that the air handler is often located in the attic, don’t plan this project in the heat of summer (at least in the daytime).

Tools: 

• depending on the model of air handler, various screwdrivers and socket drivers
• Small containers to hold the screws
• A flashlight or headlamp
• A spray bottle containing hydrogen peroxide (3% is the standard solution sold over the counter—works fine. ) OR
• A spray bottle containing 50% white vinegar and 50% water.  However, DO NOT MIX VINEGAR WITH HYDROGEN PEROXIDE!  It creates poisonous fumes.
• Paper towels or disposal rags
• Plastic bag(s) to hold contaminated towels or rags
• A cup of hydrogen peroxide in a small pouring cup OR A cup of vinegar . (DO NOT MIX VINEGAR WITH HYDROGEN PEROXIDE!)
• A roll of foil HVAC tape.
• A can of wasp spray on hand if your attic has any access to insects (ie. through a ridge or gable vent)

First, switch the AC off at the thermostat and place a piece of masking or blue tape over the switch.  Then identify the circuit breaker that controls the AC in the breaker box, switch it off and tape over that breaker.  Although we won’t be messing with electricity, you don’t want the fan to come on while you have the air handler open, blowing mold spores everywhere!

Set yourself up next to the air handler in the most comfortable way (usually these spaces are tight, I know!).  Identify the drain from the coil unit, which is usually white PVC pipe.  This pipe drains condensation that drips off the coil while it is cooling the air passing through.  The condensation is a major source of moisture for mold, so if the condensation is not draining properly, it can 1) harbor mold and 2) back up and flood the drip pan, causing water damage to insulation and sheetrock and more mold.  If you’re already experiencing problem #2, it’s probably due to algae growing in the pipe and blocking it.  You can go outside and use a wet-dry vacuum on the end of the pipe to clear the blockage, then keep going with the next step here.

The white plastic pipe coming from the air handler should have a small bend in it.  This acts like a P-trap in the drains of your house, keeping vapors in the unit with a liquid “trap” .  Ideally there is a capped “vent” on the pipe.  You’ll need to unscrew or pull the cap off, pour the liquid hydrogen peroxide OR vinegar in, and replace the cap.  This will prevent algae from growing in the pipe and blocking it.  HVAC professionals recommended to do this about once a month during peak cooling season.

Next, put on your mask and find the access door on the air handler that is closest to this pipe.  We’re going to check for mold in the drain pan.  Remove the door and shine the light inside.  If you find mold,  don’t touch it directly.  First, saturate the area with the hydrogen peroxide in the spray bottle.  Let it sit on the mold ten minutes.  Then, use the rags or paper towels to clean the surface thoroughly and dispose of them in plastic bags as you go.

While you are waiting for the hydrogen peroxide to take effect, you can remove other doors around the coil to see if the mold spread to other areas.  I found that the compressor motor body was covered in it (this is another reason you need to turn off the electricity before starting) and some other places inside the duct. 

Try to determine the source of the mold.  If the drain pan was draining correctly, but there is still mold, it may be that the unit needs more insulation internally or externally.  Insulation prevents condensation where there should be no condensation, which is everywhere except the evaporator coils!

If you can, apply a Mold Preventer spray to the problem areas.  Some are effective up to 3 months, so even if you are not successful at stopping the moisture problem right away, this will prevent the mold from recurring for a time (buys time). Here are some non-toxic options:

• Concrobium Mold Control Spray uses a patented trio of salts that are safe for everyone in the home. 

• Botanical Decon 30 from Benefect uses Thymol, an extract from thyme, in its proprietary ingredients.  It is registered with the EPA as a mildewstat and fungicidal product.

While you are in the attic, check for screws or joints that are loose, that can cause an air leak.  Warm air leaking into the system will cause condensation, so if you find one, try to seal it up with the appropriate fastener or at least, the HVAC tape.  Also check for missing insulation on ducts.  If your attic routinely gets into the 90 degF or hotter range, then the white condensation drain pipe (that drains cool water through a hot space) should also be insulated to avoid dripping into the attic.

Now that the mold is removed and prevented, you can seal everything back up and get clean!  Here are the follow-ups you need to look at to mitigate mold:

• The other source of mold food is dust.  Less dust = less mold!  Use the best HVAC filters you can afford and be sure they fit well and you change them on schedule.  HEPA filters really do help.
• Consider installing a dehumidifier to help with the efficiency and lower mold growth.
• Consider installing a BP-2400 to continually prevent mold not only in the system, but throughout your home.
• If your system is over ten years old, many HVAC professionals suggest replacement of the complete system for efficiency and cleanliness.  Get quotes and consider other types of heating/cooling systems, which may be less susceptible to mold issues.
• Some HVAC companies apply a polyurethane coating coat to their heat exchangers, which keeps the coils cleaner (saving energy), discourages mold growth (better air), and extends coil life by 3-4x.  Madd Air in Texas is one of them. 

Mold in the HVAC system is worth looking into. as you and your family's health depend on it! 

Alternatives to Traditional HVAC Systems

If you are given a recommendation to replace your existing HVAC due to age, inefficiency, or mold infestation, you should consider newer options that can improve air quality with more efficiency (read: lower energy bills!). With so much information at our fingertips and uncertainty in energy prices, it's time to think out of the box!

1)      High-Velocity Mini-Duct Systems:  These systems are exciting to me and likely anyone who appreciates historical homes.  Instead of running large, cumbersome ducts and vents into rooms, this system runs smaller vents, which can be snaked through walls more easily.  There may be several vents in a room, but they are smaller and discreet (think 2-3” round holes) and can be encased with trim that matches the room, such as wood.  This system actually removes more humidity than traditional HVAC, so the room feels more comfortable at a higher temperature.  In addition, the high velocity of multiple “jets” of air provides more mixing than singular larger vents, so that cold and warm pockets of air are avoided.  The system can also be run on “dehumidifier-only” setting just to get the air drier without heating or cooling.  Noise attenuators are installed in the ducts so there’s not significant noise with the velocity.

2) Mini-Splits: These have become popular to heat or cool spaces added onto homes, instead of modifying the existing system.  They also work well for smaller open floor plans like studios and large master bedrooms.  Because there is no “ductwork” in a Mini-Split, there is little space for mold to grow in the system itself and cleaning/replacing the filter regularly goes a long way to maintaining good air quality in the space it serves. Mini-splits are a compact variety of Air Source Heat Pumps (they have heating and cooling capabilities) and are used to upgrade older apartment buildings for energy savings and comfort. 

3)  Radiant floor heating and cooling:  If you have tracked home building trends for some decades, what started as a luxury (stepping out of bed onto a warm floor instead of a cold one!) has turned into an affordable option as materials and technologies evolve.  Radiant floor heating and cooling is easiest to install in new builds, but it can also be fitted into existing homes too (see this article on retrofitting).  Radiant heat is comfortable and enveloping, does not require ducting that can harbor dust and moisture, and it's more efficient than traditional HVAC.  The radiant system does not have to use a large boiler; it can even use an on-demand system (check out this barndominium that uses an on-demand heater for floor heating).  If you like this type of heat, why not make the system you pay to install, do double duty as a cooling system too?  You can use chilled water in the same lines that use hot water, to cool your home.  Using modern humidity sensors and switches, the system can keep condensation from occurring on the floors by monitoring dewpoint conditions.  I live in the southeast US, where outside it is continually hot and muggy for 5-6 months, but a test in India gave me the confidence that radiant floor cooling is possible even in such tropical climates (go to the “Conclusion” on this page to read the details).  Here's the summary: a leading software company built one-half of a new office building with traditional forced air cooling, and one-half with radiant cooling.  “After two years the result was clear.  The radiant system had used 34% less energy when compared to the VAV system (traditional forced air).  On top of that, the initial cost was also lower in the radiant system and a survey conducted of the building’s occupants found that thermal satisfaction was higher in the section that utilized the radiant cooling system.”  Wow!

Is My Cookware Safe?

If most of your interests and hobbies lie outside the kitchen (like me), it’s likely that you may not give a lot of thought to your cookware.  “Getting the job done” doesn’t always mean getting it done safely! Here are some reasons to inspect your cookware:

• Along with the air we breathe and water we drink, the food we eat is enormously important to our health, and what we use to prepare it is important.  Unsafe cookware can leach chemicals into the food. 
• Cooking on a stove or oven raises temperatures above the limits of safety for many cookware materials, giving off harmful gases (VOCs) into the air, which can be breathed in by everyone in the area.

Let's start with types of universally safe cookware:

• Cast iron: It’s a tried and true material that is the original “non-stick” surface!  When cared for properly, cast iron pans can last decades.  It even has the benefit of transferring minimal amounts of iron to your food (only a problem if you are high in iron already).  Here is how to season and maintain your cast iron cookware (it really is easier to maintain a cast-iron pan than anything else--mine stays on the stove and is used almost every day!)
• Stainless steel:  My dad always said when we kids were pestering him, “You can’t hurt steel!”  Stainless steel gives back in durability, for sure.  It’s a great pot for boiling and simmering, and if you use appropriate amounts of oil or butter for frying, you can even cook delicate eggs without sticking.   
• Glass: Mainly used for baking, glass is a great inert vessel, although not as durable as cast iron or stainless steel. 

Now for the questionably safe cookware materials:

• Teflon and other non-stick coatings: Teflon is the trade name of a non-stick coating that contained PTFE (Polytetrafluoroethylene).  PTFE was made with PFOA up until 2015, when PFOA was discovered to be toxic to pet birds (and to humans).  This happens when the coating is overheated (easy to do) or scratched (also easy to do!), emitting PFCs (perfluorinated compounds) that can cause certain cancers and affect the thyroid and the immune system.    However, PTFE continues to be manufactured using chemicals similar to PFOA, which still emit PFCs.  If you are still in love with your non-stick omelet pan, I would make sure never to place it empty on a heated burner or flame (to avoid overheating), be sure to run the stovetop vent the whole time, until the pan is cooled, and of course, use utensils and cleaners that won’t scratch the coating.  
• Coated ceramic pans:  The technology behind getting a ceramic coating on a metal pan is nanotechnology, which uses super-small particles.  This study from 2017 showed that a significant amount of titanium nanoparticles can be released when cooking slightly acidic food or accidentally scratching the pan.  Green is a color and name that has been used for decades to denote safe, people and earth-friendly materials, right?  It just really messes with our brains, then, when a product that uses green doesn’t live up to the name.  Many ceramic coated pans with nanoparticle coatings use the green color, and “GreenPans” is a manufacturer that uses 3 known toxic compounds in their pans.  You may think twice about the “green” claims of these type of pans!
• Silicone: What!?  After Martha Stewart spent the 1990’s using SilPat baking mats, I thought that the safety of silicone cookware was unquestioned.  It comes in a ton of fun colors and is non-stick, a biggie in my book. Although the FDA says that food-grade silicone does not cause harmful chemical contamination (is safe) up to 428 degrees Fahrenheit (220 C), some recent studies show that silicone bakeware loses weight at these high temperatures.  Where does the weight go?  Into our food or the air we breathe.   “When used at temperatures above 200 deg F silicone cookware releases volatile organic compounds (VOCs) into your air and siloxanes into your food.” (Mary Caldarelli, Is Silicone Cookware Safe?)  This author does a great job of explaining how silicone cookware is made (with additives) and what is potentially harmful in it.  She is educated in environmental health and runs a very informative website.  So for now, you may consider using silicone at lower temperatures like food storage.  
• Plastic:  Plastic cooking utensils may be tempting to bring to the potluck just in case they don't find their way back home.  But add heat to them for cooking or washing, and dangerous chemicals can find their way into your food, fast.  Among them are brominated flame retardants, which have been linked to births of low weight and size.  Water and soda bottles are also tempting to reuse (save the planet, right?) but washing in warm water can cause these to release BPA and phthalates, which are linked to cancer, infertility, cognitive and developmental problems and obesity, among other conditions.  Styrofoam take-out containers and opaque cutlery contain polystyrene, which is a possible carcinogen.  There are many more plastics out there that have similar effects.  What's the takeaway here? Plastics just don't play well with our foods!  Even though some frozen quick meals and veggies are designed to be baked or microwaved in their plastic or coated cardboard containers, you can usually take the safer route by transferring the contents to a glass container with loose-fitting lid for the microwave, or oven-safe baking container with foil. Add a splash of water to veggies and voila!  You have safer fast food (frozen lasagna is a bit hard to transfer, I'll admit)!

How to Improve Indoor Air Quality with Pets

Pets are part of the family, so we just need to work smarter to keep everyone healthy even when one family member releases more allergens than all the others combined (ahem…)!   Here are the allergens we need to be aware of with pets:

• Fur…not!  Actually, pet hair is not an allergen according to the AAFA, the Asthma and Allergy Foundation of America.  Pet hair can carry allergens like dander, urine and saliva.  Another myth:  there is no such thing as a “hypoallergenic” pet!
• Dander, tiny bits of skin and associated microorganisms that live on it
• Saliva
• Urine and feces

The AAFA have a number of suggestions to cut down on allergies associated with pets, such as removing the pet from the bedroom, and asking someone without an allergy to brush the pet outdoors and change litter boxes (some of these are more feasible than others!!)  We think that the following suggestions are the most helpful:

• Even if you have a non-shedding pet, their dander can still be an allergen.  Invest in a vacuum cleaner with a HEPA filter and use it often, and use an N95 mask while doing so and afterwards.  Anyone else in the home at the time should also wear a mask during and after vacuuming, because it stirs up dander and dust from surfaces into the air.   Here are some vacuum cleaners we recommend: 
  • Most economical:  Vacmaster Pro 8 gallon Certified Hepa Filtration Wet/Dry Vac
  • Professional and Home Cleaning: Emerson ProTeam Vacuums
  • Water-based filters: Sirena Vacuum Cleaners
  • For our European community: Taski Aero Vacuums
• Brushing your furry pets definitely helps them to shed hair and dander in a controlled way (preferably outside or during bath-time!)  You can check with your vet for their recommendations, and here are some pet brushes that are above average:
  • Furminator brushes have been reviewed by many to drastically reduce loose fur flying around the house.  The website helps you choose the right brush for your dog or cat, but the products are found on many sites.
  • Hartz Groomer’s Best Combo Brush is two-sided to allow you to detangle and remove longer hair, and slick down shorter hair. 
  • Chris Christensen has a full range of dog products which allow you to shop by breed (Azawakh, anyone?)
• Bathing dogs and cats on a regular basis helps to keep their skin and coats healthy–check with your vet for bathing frequency and products, and check out this lineup of natural dog shampoos.  After all, if you are concerned about VOCs and toxins in your personal care items, your pets deserve the same care!
• Pet Urine and feces…happen in the house sometimes.  Apart from training them to use your toilet (yes it’s possible), cleanup is a fact of pet owner life.  Fortunately sanitizing and deodorizing cleaners have evolved and do not have to over-scent your home to neutralize the odor.  Consider moving an Air Angel unit closer to the site of the accident (or where the litter box is stationed) to eliminate any residual odors.  Here are some other options that definitely help!
  • Colorfil manufactures HVAC filters that are especially helpful to pet owners, who deal with ammonia smells and related chemicals in urine.  The filter material turns from a magenta pink when clean, to a dull yellow when dirty, due to citric acid compounds that react with contaminants.  The company began to create innovative filter systems for NASA spacesuits in 2016 and moved on cabin air filters for vehicles and HVAC filters.
  • For natural, non-toxic cleaners that remove stains and odors, check out this extensive list.
  • Cat litters are quite varied but you should consider some major toxins in this product category.  Sodium bentonite, for example, is the clumping agent used in many litters, yet it is toxic when ingested by cats.  Dust created by some clay or silica-based litter is harmful for people and cats. Here is a list of natural litters with less chemicals.    
  • Another solution to the cat litter odor problem can be used with any type of litter because of a genius invention: a litter box with air filtration!  This one by BioStrike is very sturdy and the filters require changing every 3 months. 

I think you’ll find that the “positive reinforcement” of a cleaner home and easier breathing is worth the effort when it comes to fighting pet allergens!

OH (BLANK), it's allergy season again

To my great surprise and disgust, one can develop allergies later in life, and not only in springtime.  This was the case despite living in the same city (New Orleans) for over 12 years.  I used to be amazed at the green coating on my vehicle and washed it off weekly without any respiratory reactions, but then suddenly one March, I was aware of SPRING.  Only in hindsight (when it’s nearly impossible to counteract the raging histamines and inflammation), I realized, am I allergic to pollen?  A couple years later, the onset was in the winter after a particularly rainy period and I was overwhelmed again. 

Even staying inside during “high pollen count days” is of little comfort if your home is not armed against pollen.  Here’s what we’re talking about: neutralization and filtration.

Neutralization breaks apart contaminants, makes them less harmful, or changes them for easier removal from the air.  Neutralization with HypoAir products looks like this: the polar ions cluster around contaminants such as pollen grains and mold spores (both are allergens, as the pollen grain comes with actively pollinating plants and the mold may come during/after a wet season), causing these contaminants to become heavier and drop out of the air, or more easily filtered out of the air (next step).  

Filtration is the next key.  Fortunately, pollen grains are relatively large in diameter, 10-17 microns in size.  That means you don’t need a HEPA filter (which target particles about 2.5 microns and larger) in the HVAC system to get most of the pollen out of the air.  What we recommend is changing the HVAC filter slightly early during high pollen season, even if you don’t see a visible change in the filter.  We do continue to recommend HEPA filter vacuums (or their equivalent like the Sirena) because the pollen on the floor will be entrained with smaller particles and they all need to GO!

You also need to consider the air you let into your home.  Just because it’s allergy season, it's not necessary to padlock your windows!  This is especially true in milder climates that don’t even require air conditioning or heat for much of the year, like southern California or Hawaii.  There are several products on the market that let you leave the windows open, but keep the pollen out.  Our Window Ventilation Filters allow you to do this, and are easy to vacuum clean.  

Hand Sanitizer Insanity

I will always remember a mini sanitizer bottle with blue silicone travel strap that I tossed in the garbage in January 2020 because I hadn't even used it in the 2 years after I received it as a freebie at an event.  Talk about blowing up a product overnight!  In March of 2020, sanitizers were SOLD OUT.  We received many questions on the sanitizing effects of our air purifiers (check out the FAQ here) but hand sanitizers are here to stay.  Here is what to know about them:

• The FDA has identified over 77 sanitizers that are unsafe to use and should be tossed out.  The main culprit is unsafe levels of methanol, which is produced during the first part of the distilling process.  
• Other unsafe ingredients in hand sanitizers include triclosan, phthalates, fragrance, sodium laurel/laureth sulfate, and parabens.
• Ethanol is considered the “safe” form of alcohol that is used in safe sanitizers (at a minimum of 67%), but this is also a VOC (volatile organic compound) and it causes your skin to become ultra-absorptive to more dangerous toxins, like BPA.  BPA is a chemical that’s found in paper like receipts, plastic eating and drinking containers, and it disrupts our hormones and causes 7 out of 10 hallmarks of cancer.  So if you sanitize your hands before eating, then handle a receipt for your fast food, you have effectively transferred the BPA into your skin. 
• Some hand sanitizers use Benzalkonium Chloride (BAC) as their main sanitizing ingredient, which is considered safe up to concentrations of  0.1%.  This ingredient can be more harmful, however, to people with asthma or eczema, and is a less reliable defense against bacteria and viruses than sanitizers containing ethanol or isopropyl alcohol as their main ingredient. 
• Hand sanitizers do not remove actual dirt, other contaminants like gasoline, and are less effective than hand-washing at removing dangerous germs like norovirus and C. difficile.  So, if you are doing certain tasks like the following, make sure to use good old-fashioned soap and water:
  • When you are exposed to stomach germs like norovirus or c. difficile
  • Before and after preparing food
  • After going to the bathroom or cleaning up any human or animal waste
  • While caring for someone who is sick
  • After handling garbage
  • Before treating wounds
  • When you have visible dirt on your hands
  • After handling animals

Here are some sanitizers you can make on your own!

• Force of Nature is a method of making electrolyzed water, which is a completely safe and natural disinfectant that can be used for hand sanitizing and cleaning all areas in your home that can tolerate water!  They have a line of reusable bottles and travel-size sprays that are great for the environment.
• Make your own sanitizer with aloe vera gel and essential oils 

And here are some sanitizers you can buy that have safer active ingredients such as citric acid or hydrogen peroxide: 

• EO Hand Sanitizers: use plant-derived organic alcohol
• Bee Clean Beeswax Hand Sanitizer: uses beeswax for moisturizing properties

Do healthy, good-smelling hand-sanitizers make great little gifts?  We think so!

The Matrix of Mattresses

Mattresses are quite a broad subject; no wonder it can seem overwhelming when shopping for one!   When you decide to replace your mattress, there are a number of factors that ergonomically narrow your choices (ie. being a side sleeper vs. a back sleeper, being a petite vs. heavy person, preferring soft vs. firm, etc.).  There might be a broad field left… but then if you narrow the choices again with materials, a few companies and mattresses should start to stand out.

For sure, you need to love the way your new mattress feels, as you will be spending a good amount of time recharging your body on it!  The best resource I’ve found to help narrow the choices is myslumberyard.com.  The site has a good number of reviews and comparisons for major brands, and will get you headed in the right direction with a good old-fashioned quiz (don’t worry, “I don’t know” is a choice for a lot of the answers!) Most importantly to our purposes here, the question “what type of mattress do you prefer?” has an “eco-friendly” option.  Although I wasn’t sure what the website defines as eco-friendly, I went with that option and also gave them my email, because they can send significant coupons.  And, voila!  The top bed recommendations were indeed made from natural materials with certifications, and most came with $100-$300 off coupon codes.  When I read the review of each recommended mattress, I could see why I would like a certain mattress or not.

Why should I steer away from mattresses made with certain synthetic materials?

Synthetic memory foam and other polyurethane foam, and synthetic latex are most common materials that can produce harmful VOCs in offgas.  This report by the Sleep Foundation provides a good explanation of harmful materials in memory foam. Flame retardants and chemical coatings are also sources of VOCs, IF all the materials are disclosed (even the coatings may have hidden chemicals).

Here is some other helpful facts to consider:

• There are five different types of mattresses: Innerspring, memory foam, hybrid (which uses a combination of innerspring and foam), air mattresses, and waterbeds (they’re still around!).
• It’s very important to have proper support under your mattress, because placing it directly on the floor creates a moisture problem with no airflow to resolve it.  This is the perfect recipe for mold!  A boxspring and/or slat system are imperative to minimize mold.
• Innerspring and hybrid mattresses provide body support while using less solid materials that can offgas.  
• Allowing any new mattress to offgas in a separate, ventilated room for 3 or more days is advisable.  To prevent the VOCs from entering the rest of your home, you can neutralize them by using an Air Angel in the room with the mattress. 
• If you are concerned about the type of foam used in a new mattress you are considering, go to Certipur-US to check the seller.  This organization certifies foams for safety regarding flame-retardants, heavy metals, formaldehyde, phthalates and VOCs.  

This review gives a lot of options for different materials with no VOCs and least allergy reactions: wool, natural latex, natural memory foam, non-toxic polyurethane, buckwheat hulls, cotton, kapok, and silk.

Other than VOCs and reactions to the materials themselves, some materials are naturally resistant to dust mites, a big allergen for many people.  

• Natural latex is made from the sap of the rubber tree, which does not accommodate dust mites. It is also not an allergen concern, even for people who can’t wear latex gloves.
• Foam mattresses are too dense for dust mites to live in, though they can live on the surface (another reason to protect the mattress with a cover)

Regardless of the material, if you choose to go “organic”, the best assurance of organic comes from certification by a standardized international organization like GOTS, Global Organic Textile Standard.  Their strict regulations from farm to market for labor, materials, animal husbandry and treatments (pesticides and genetics) are the gold standard for organic mattress materials.  GOLS is the equivalent for latex products.  OEKO-TEX is an organization with a number of certifications, the most relevant to mattresses being their Standard 100 (no harmful substances) and Made in Green (no harmful substances + manufactured in environmentally responsible facilities under socially responsible working conditions).  Here are some mattresses under these certifications:  

• Plushbeds has a long list of certifications including GOTS, GOLS, Greenguard Gold, OEKO-TEX Standard 100, Rainforest Alliance and CertiPur-US. They offer natural latex and memory foam mattresses, the latter of which are CertiPUR and GREENGUARD Gold certified.  Plushbeds are made in the USA.
• Birch mattresses have OEKO-TEX certification that no components are potentially toxic.  They are also Greenguard Gold certified, with a GOTS certified cotton layer.  
• Winkbeds’ EcoCloud mattress is made with all-natural fibers such as natural latex and New Zealand wool, and organic cotton with GOTS certification. It also has an OEKO-TEX class 1 certification which means it is free from harmful chemicals.
• MyGreenMattress beds are all sustainably sourced with certifications from GOLS, GOTS and Greenguard Gold.
• Brentwood Home is a handcrafted mattress (made in the USA) which has a great budget option–the Cypress–which are CertiPur-US and Greenguard Gold certified.
• Awara uses Rainforest Alliance certified latex and 100% organic certified wool from New Zealand, and has CertiPur-US certification.  These beds are manufactured in China, so they are a great budget-friendly option.  This company also gives you a full 365 trial period (longest in the industry). 
• Avocado mattresses have certifications from GOLS, GOTS, Greenguard Gold and MADE-SAFE.  They also have a vegan-friendly option that replaces a wool layer with organic cotton. 

Shopping for a healthy mattress has never had so many choices, help to find the right one, and time to “sleep on it”! 

Ewww! How can I get rid of that smell?

Hopefully you’ve read our first post about smell, “Why does that smell make me happy? Or sad”  because it gives some background about how our sense of smell affects the rest of our body.  I mentioned some good smells like peppermint and eucalyptus oil, but of course there are smells that really turn us off, and that’s what I want to discuss here.  Maybe they are not even coming from your space, but from a neighbor!  In that case you can also reference our post “How do I improve air quality in my home when the people around me don’t care?”

It’s okay to admit that our spaces just sometimes stink.  Our cars, our homes, our office… it happens.  I still kick myself for forgetting that grocery bag of raw chicken in the car for three days!  Sometimes I visit friends with babies and there is the lingering smell of sour milk. And then there are pets, teen’s rooms, and stinky habits of others we can’t control. 

Of course, you can buy an aerosol can of deodorizer or Febreeze to mask or “neutralize” the scent.  Spray and voila!, your space smells like vanilla or fresh linen or coconuts.  Although Febreze.com actually has a page listing the ingredients and claiming the safety of their products, it does not list all of the ingredients, especially the potentially hazardous ones like phthalates (hormone interruption especially for children), 1,4- Dichlorobenzene (deadens sense of smell).  The Environmental Working Group (EWG), a non-profit organization dedicated to testing consumer products and educating consumers to make more informed choices about healthy living, tested the “Linen and Sky” version of this freshener two times, once in 2012 and once in 2017, for its two different versions.  The first version rated a grade of “D” on a scale of A-F; the second version in 2012 rated a score of “C”.  The same scent (second version) in the Fabric Refresher product also rated a “C”, however within that rating several ingredients are rated “D”, causing skin allergies, respiratory and endocrine effects, among others.  Now, the reason Febreze Air Effects could have an overall rating of “C” yet have more dangerous “D” chemicals in it, is due to the fact that it does have a few good, harmless ingredients like water, nitrogen, ethanol, sodium citrate and citric acid.  That’s what we need more of.

The EWG recognizes that this type of air freshener only covers up the odors…they are still there, we are still breathing them but they are cocooned in chemicals that don’t benefit us.  Their recommendation on both the Air Effects and Fabric Refresher products: search for a better air freshener/fabric refresher!  And this group delivers: check out their Air Freshener pages for a slew of A and B rated products (Febreze’s Pet Odor Eliminator, surprisingly, was rated a B, as was many Mrs. Meyer’s products). But at the top of the list?  Good old baking soda!  Here is where you can get great effects from a cheaper product (generic baking soda sold at less than $1 per box, is the same as brand name baking soda and still way less expensive than a can of air freshener). 

Many cleaning experts agree–natural products do work!  Remove the source of stink if you can (take out the trash, clean the litter box, ventilate the bathroom, etc.) and then place one of these in your space (with a fan and/or fresh air ventilation from an open window if possible to accelerate the process). All of the following remove the bad scents while adding little to no scent of their own (even vinegar in a corner of the room does not have a lot of smell):

• Activated charcoal: Charcoal will not add a scent to the air but it will absorb malodors.  We have high-MERV HVAC filters with activated charcoal, and cut-to-size activated charcoal media to remove odors throughout the home.
• Vinegar: placing an open bowl of apple cider or distilled white vinegar in a corner will help trap cooking and cigarette smoke odors.
• Baking soda: Just as baking soda works to absorb odors in your refrigerator, a bowl placed in a room will also absorb odors.  Adding some baking soda to your vacuum bag will also overcome the musty scents that linger there, too.
• Lemon water: Water absorbs odors and adding slices of fresh lemon will provide a clean citrus scent.
• Coffee grounds: Fresh coffee grounds add a scent to the air but also absorb odors when placed in an open bowl.

(Source: The Spruce)

We have one more recommendation for a natural deodorizer: HypoAir's new cleaner TotalClean.  Formulated with iodine, this non-toxic product not only cleans many surfaces around the house, you can spray it into the air around stinky places--trashcans, litter boxes and the like--to effectively deodorize!  

If you want to have a more permanent deodorizer with fan, HypoAir has recently introduced charcoal filters for the Germ Defender.  This little plug-in is powerful!  While it is sending out positive and negative ions to kill the source of the stink (moldy surfaces, bacteria, etc.), the charcoal filters are actively filtering and deodorizing the air.  This is a low-maintenance deodorizing and sanitizing unit you can place strategically in the stinkiest areas of your home (bathroom, laundry room, pet areas, teenager’s room, etc.)  

Now that the bad scents are removed, if you want to add good fragrance back in, here are some safe options for those who prefer their home to be lightly scented.  This list is sourced from livesimply.me: 

• Beeswax candles: unlike regular scented candles, most of which are made from paraffin wax and give off hydrocarbon byproducts, beeswax candles do not pollute the air.   For a light scent, use beeswax candles scented with essential oils.
• Diffusers: Did you know that you can get a scent similar to your favorite Yankee Candle (made from paraffin and harmful fragrances), by mixing essential oils in diffuser?  You can hack a “pumpkin spice” scent!  There are seven types of diffusers, some of which add more humidity to your space than others. 
• Simmer pots will allow you to replicate more of those comfy scents, but with more humidity, since the medium for simmering is water.  If you have a high humidity problem in your home, it’s best to limit simmer pots for dry seasons like winter, and never leave them unattended. 
• Vodka air fresheners:  Many commercial fresheners use various types of alcohols as “carriers” which emulsify fragrances and dry quickly, leaving only the scent behind.  Vodka is a very pure type of alcohol, and witch hazel is another safe “carrier” (but it does not evaporate as quickly as vodka). Higher proof vodkas mean higher alcohol content, but you’ll want a non-flavored one and cheap brands work just as well as more expensive ones.  Here are some recipes for popular holiday scents. 
• Vanilla or peppermint extract: Saturate a few cotton balls with cooking extracts and place them on small saucers around the room. They also work great when placed in a vacuum bag or dust cup to add a bit of scent as you clean. (Source: The Spruce) 
• This list of brand-name air fresheners from the EWG contains many safe options (grade A or B).  Aura-Cacia and Eco-Me brands have appeared on other expert lists as well.

The downside to essential oils is that they do contain VOCs; it’s what makes them so wonderfully fragrant.  Knowing this, it's smart to increase ventilation and limit the time of use.  However, by adding your own essential oils to any of these appliances, you know what is going into the air and you can control the intensity so that it does not overpower like some commercial air fresheners. Smells naturally delicious to me!

Air Quality Myths–debunked!

Don’t worry, at HypoAir we’re learning everyday too.  Whether the myth comes from the media, or your family, or just what you assume happens, many of the things we believe about air quality–are not true!  Let’s dive in and get to the bottom of these myths…

• My old, leaky house has better air quality than new tighter ones because it “breathes”.  Well, yes and no!  Ventilation is good, but if it’s allowing polluted or humid air in, that’s not good!  We like to opt for controlled ventilation, when you can open a window on clear days but on polluted or humid days, close it and still get fresh, conditioned air through special intakes to your HVAC.
• Air conditioners provide fresh air ventilation.  Actually, most air conditioners don’t provide any fresh air!  Standard central and window units are closed systems, which mean they are simply recirculating (and recirculating…) air within your home.  In order to get fresh air, you’ll need to have a special intake installed on your central unit, which may or may not filter and “condition” the air it pulls from outside.  Check out our post on Adding fresh air through the HVAC system for more info.
• It’s best to clean your AC ducts every 3-5 years.  This is a myth perpetuated by some duct cleaning companies.  Actually, we (and the EPA) don’t recommend duct cleaning unless you have mold in the AC system, have a pest infestation (rodents, bats or birds usually), or excessive amounts of debris.  Normal dust in ducts doesn’t pose a risk to indoor air quality and it’s best left undisturbed, because there are risks that ducts can be punctured or damaged during cleaning, or cleaning chemicals can leave behind VOCs.  For more info, check out our post “Should I clean my HVAC ducts?”
• My thermostat takes care of the humidity.  Are you sure?  Standard thermostats only regulate temperature, and when the system meets the temperature goal, it shuts off.  It’s best to have a second monitor, like our humidity sensors, to make sure you are meeting your humidity (40-60%) goal as well as temperature. 
• When it comes to AC units, the bigger the system, the better.  Actually, installing too big of a system (central or window unit) will cause a problem called short-cycling, where the unit turns on, quickly brings the temperature down, but does not have time to reduce the humidity.   This is definitely not good for your home or the machinery, because damp air can cause mold and mechanical issues.  Lesson: the correct size is better!  Contact an HVAC tech to perform a load calculation to size the unit correctly. 
• It’s normal for the upstairs of the house to be warmer.  Well, to some degree, but it doesn’t have to be a completely different climate than the lower story.  The two areas are called “zones” and even if you only have one AC unit, you can get the system “balanced” so it works less to keep both zones at comfortable temperatures.  Check out our post “Why selecting and sizing your AC system is critical for healthy air”.
• I don’t always need to use the stovetop ventilation when cooking.  Yes, you do need it a lot more than you thought–roasting meat, baking, and even stovetop cooking that only creates fumes for a few minutes all exude a lot of VOCs and particulates from the pans, oils and food.  Cooking with gas emits much more fine particulates (PM2.5) into the air than electric. 
• If a cleaning product has a natural smell, it’s not toxic.   Sorry!  This myth is why detergent companies market their products to smell “natural”, but load them with many toxic ingredients.  Also, some of the VOCs found in nature (like limonene, a citrusy smell) can react with other chemicals to form harmful pollutants.  Our recommendation would be to use products like TotalClean, which have no fragrance but do the cleaning job, then use your favorite essential oils to add a safe level of fragrance to your home.  Check out our post “Ewww!  How can I get rid of that smell?”  (hint–TotalClean works great as a deodorizer also!)
• My personal products have nothing to do with my allergies/sinusitus/congestion.  Actually, they definitely could. Since the chemicals in our shampoos, soaps, lotions and deodorants are among those that form ozone in summer smogs, they can hang around in your house and on your body long after showering (Guardian article), causing respiratory irritation.  Some of the ways that we can reduce their effects on us is rinsing for longer, using  the bathroom vent (ideally continual use for 30 minutes after showering to reduce moisture in the bathroom too) and switching to non-aerosol products. 
• Bleach is the best way to kill mold. Bleach certainly kills mold, but it also dangerous to your respiratory system and skin, and can react with limonene, a common citrusy-smelling VOC found in other cleaning products, to form secondary organic aerosols (SOAs), which are minute particles that compose smog.  There are a number of less toxic products that can kill mold, such as TotalClean (which contains iodine), hydrogen peroxide, vinegar, baking soda, grapefruit seed extract, etc. (be careful about what you mix together though!)  Check out this article for some natural solutions to clean up mold. 
• If the EPA allows the sale of a household product, then it’s not toxic.  Unfortunately, the EPA does not know all of the ingredients that household products contain, because they are not required to be disclosed.  Organizations like the Environmental Working Group (EWG) and Women’s Voices for Earth (WVE) have tested many household products to reveal the toxic ingredients they contain.  Check out our post “Reasons not to use your mama’s (or grandma’s) cleaning products”, to be better informed for healthy purchasing!

Do you have an “Air Quality Myth” you would like for us to address?  Let us know!