All Posts by Jennifer Faul

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No-Demo Renos for Air Quality

No-Demo Renos for Air Quality

As of 2024, home renovation is still very popular in the US, but there’s been some interesting developments, such as “no demo reno”.  Eliminating demolition usually means less cost and less time--two very important commodities in renovation!  I’m waiting for designers to take it a step further to challenge themselves to redesign for air quality on a budget, to be judged by air quality experts.  Of course, you can spend thousands of dollars on the latest HVAC and purification systems, but you can also make a big impact with a lot less.  That’s what I’m talking about!

Whether you live in a sealed upper-storey apartment using forced air all the time or only use natural ventilation via windows and doors, furniture placement can affect the airflow and thus the air quality in your home.  According to a 2022 study, furniture layout is a key factor that affects the direction of airflow in a building. Different furniture heights can block or trap natural air or lower the direction of the airflow, thereby producing microscale positive or negative pressure.  It evaluated a naturally-ventilated school in Thailand which was located in a city which was plagued by high PM2.5 every January and May, mostly due to agricultural burning, and wind-blown dust. Under natural ventilation conditions, the direction of PM 2.5 distribution in the classroom was the same as that of the natural air. The air velocity and PM 2.5 concentration in the classroom were correlated positively, whereas the velocity increased, with the increasing concentration of PM 2.5. Adjusting the furniture layout of the classroom, as well as the size of the openings, affected the airflow and distribution of PM 2.5 within the classroom. 

Another study evaluated the pollution level of new furniture (VOCs).  Just by rearranging the furniture in an office with a forced-air system, there was a notable difference between the best and the worst ventilation effectiveness without any changes in the ventilation.  The key learning points were to: 

1) always try to place the pollution source (new furniture) as far away from your usual breathing zone (like sitting at the desk) as possible and, 

2) try to sit in the upflow field of the airflow.

If you aren’t trying to off-gas any new furniture, here are the rules that enable your HVAC to work at its optimum (How Furniture Placement Affects Your HVAC):

  • Make sure the furniture is not blocking any registers or vents.

  • Place furniture away from walls so that adequate airflow behind the furniture can prevent formation of mildew.  This happens when there is not enough air circulation (stagnation) to prevent humidity from saturating surfaces.  For more on how you can avoid mildew with better air circulation/ventilation, check out our article here.

  • Don’t block any windows or doors when placing large pieces such as couches or dressers near them

If you do need to obstruct a vent, try to use a deflector on the register so that air flow is directed to an open area.  They come in a number of shapes and sizes, even adjustable, to match your register/grille and desired direction of airflow.

How to visualize airflow in your space

There are professional engineering programs that can help “see” airflow, but they take quite a bit of measuring and input to get a simulation.  On the simple side, you can use the following to “see” airflow, and adjusting furniture position, window openings, vent positions and fan positions and speeds to modify air currents.

  • A helium balloon that has neutral buoyancy that “hangs” in the air below the ceiling will move with air currents (you can tie or tape a small weight onto it to adjust height).

  • A bowl of warm water with a chunk of dry ice (frozen CO2) will give off fog that moves with air currents (just be careful to use thick gloves when handling!)

  • Old-fashioned soap bubbles (you can make a wand by twisting a paperclip into a loop and use dish detergent and water) blown straight up into the air will tend to move in the direction of other air currents.

  • Candle flames/smoke may also show the direction of air currents.

  • Tape streamers or tissue paper in doorways to see which direction the air flows (tinsel also works).

  • Anemometers are fun devices to play around with, but unfortunately they usually only work very close to a vent or fan; they don’t move with minimal airflows. 

Windows: Don’t forget to pull back curtains or remove them altogether if you are using natural ventilation, because blocking windows with curtains blocks airflow and light!  Curtains are usually necessary for privacy, but you might consider trying sheer or loosely-woven curtains or a decorative fabric screen placed a foot or two inside the window, for more airflow.  If you want to open windows without letting in pollen or air pollution, check out our Nanofiber PureAir Window Screens and Window Ventilation Filters.

Fans: Portable fans can set atop furniture or even be hung on the wall to increase airflow.  Take the time to clean your ceiling fans and make sure they are running in the right direction (clockwise in the heating season and counter-clockwise for the cooling season).  

Even if you’ve lived in a space for a long time and think you have tried “every possible arrangement” of furniture, the act of rearranging furniture every so often is not futile for the following reasons (Rearranging Furniture Could Help You Use Space More Effectively and Give You a Mental Boost):

  • Moving furniture will expose dirt, dust and allergens so that you can clean under it, improving indoor air quality.

  • Moving it may force you to remove or store clutter that also collects dust

  • Moving furniture could expose other air quality problems like hidden leaks or mildew, pet stains or pest infestations

Better furniture arrangement can help you to feel less stuffy and more energetic, even if the airflow changes are minute.  Just a few last tips before you get busy redesigning a room: 

  • remember to use a measuring tape first before trying to move heavy or large furniture to a new spot! 

  • Have your cleaning supplies at the ready to vacuum up dust, cobwebs, pet hair, etc..

  • Call on your friends not only to help with the moving, but also to lend ideas.  

  • If you don't have plants, consider adding a few strategic plants as natural air purifiers (and a pop of color!)

  • Plugging in a small air purifier with a fan like the  Germ Defender or Upgraded Air Angel Mobile will freshen the air and add airflow on a micro scale.

Photo by Nathan Fertig on Unsplash

Surround yourself with trees, and your heart will thank you for it!

Surround yourself with trees, and your heart will thank you for it!

We tend to surround ourselves with what brings us comfort.  It might be your favorite music, your favorite color, your favorite art, and even your favorite pillow or type of sheets when you go to bed.  What if your source of comfort actually made you healthy?  Where you live and what you do with your property is an important choice that can affect your heart health.

We’ve been told for some time that plants have psychological and physical benefits–just look at this page of studies!  A new study (2021) correlates the proximity of living near trees, to arterial stiffness.  According to a 2010 textbook, “Arterial stiffness describes the rigidity of the arterial wall. In the last decade, there has been increasing interest in the potential role of arterial stiffening in the development of cardiovascular disease in adults.”  In addition, the 2015 book Early Vascular Aging states, “Arterial stiffness is a hallmark of arterial aging. As with all other organ systems, changes in the vascular system are induced over time.”  This is very important, because cardiovascular disease (CVD) is the leading cause of death worldwide.  Although many associate CVD with genetics, “recent estimates suggest that up to 70%–80% of CVD burden could be attributed to non-genetic environmental factors, such as lifestyle choices, socioeconomic status, air pollution, lack of surrounding greenness (2), and residential characteristics (2018 study). Indeed, emerging evidence has shown that living in greener areas results in improved health and is associated with lower mortality (2016 study on mortality of women, 2016 study on green spaces and mortality), and reduced CVD risk (2019 study, 2012 study).”

How does the “proximity to greenness” cause these positive effects?  Is it because vegetation promotes exercise or a healthier lifestyle?  Or because it reduces stress?  Trees do have the ability to filter and block particulate matter, and it has been shown that people living in greener areas were exposed to lower levels of volatile organic compounds (2020 study).The 2021 study focused on reduction of pollution, particularly ozone and PM, due to plants and trees in specific radii around the home, and the effect of the reduced pollution on the participants’ arterial data.

What is proximity to greenness?  The study used satellite-derived normalized difference vegetation index (NDVI) for a 200-m and 1-km radius around each participant’s home; the 200 m range was directly around the home, while the 1 km radius indicated walking distance.  Data on ambient levels of pollutant concentrations were retrieved from regional EPA-validated monitoring stations in the Louisville, KY region, that report daily pollutant levels.  The data included PM2.5, PM10 and ozone. 

Here are some specific results: 

  • At smaller radii (200 m) buffer around the home, inverse associations between standard deviation of NDVI and augmentation pressure, aortic pulse pressure, and aortic systolic pressure were observed (as greenness goes up, arterial stiffness goes down). 
  • Significant positive associations between several arterial stiffness metrics and pollutants in low greenness areas were observed, whereas the association between pollutants and arterial stiffness measures was not significant in areas of high greenness (as greenness goes down, arterial stiffness goes up).
  • Arterial stiffness was only associated with NDVI at the 200-m radius, but not the 1-km radius, giving support to the theory that because roadways are sources of pollutants, street trees within a 200-m radius around the individuals’ residence would be more relevant in blocking exposure to pollution. 
  • It was shown that ozone, but not PM2.5, was significantly associated with higher augmentation index (increased arterial stiffness). This suggests that ozone-induced effects on arterial stiffness are independent of PM2.5 exposure and potentially stronger.
  • In addition to modifying the effects of air pollution, proximity to greenness may improve cardiovascular health by decreasing mental stress. Exposure to natural outdoor environments has been found to be associated with better mental health and could facilitate stress reduction (2017 study), and neighborhood greenness is associated with lower levels of self-perceived stress and depression (2018 study), particularly in older adults. In our work, we have found that higher levels of residential greenness are inversely associated with urinary levels of the stress hormone—epinephrine (2018 study). Hence, it seems plausible that some of the effects of greenness on arterial stiffness may be mediated by a reduction in mental stress. 

How can we apply these findings to our own lives?  Since “greenness” is good for our bodies, plant as many trees and shrubs as possible, and encourage your neighbors to do so as well, by letting them know how good it is for them and the neighborhood.  The 200 meter radius is equivalent to 656 feet, which when converted to square feet (656 x 656) is equivalent to 2.3 acres.  That is a big green space that not many people own for their own property, but when spread out over a neighborhood or nearby park, it is certainly achievable.  If you live near a busy highway or road, definitely plant as much green area on the border of your property as you can. 

Some tree species are better than others at absorbing pollution, because as we’ve mentioned in other posts, some plants take in ground-level ozone, while other plants emit isoprene, a VOC that reacts with other atmospheric chemicals to create ozone. (Scientific American).  You definitely want the former type!   Here are some tips:

  • A free online tool called i-Tree Species helps you to select the best plants depending on desired hardiness (after all, if the plant won’t live in your area it won’t do much good to introduce it), mature height and environmental factors such as air pollution removal and air temperature reduction, among other factors.
  • In one recent study, Barbara Maher and colleagues at the University of Lancaster tested the ability of nine tree species to capture PM in wind-tunnel experiments. Silver birch, yew and elder trees were the most effective at capturing particles, and it was the hairs of their leaves that contributed to reduction rates of 79%, 71% and 70% respectively. (bbc.com)
  • Conifers, such as pines and cypresses, are the best pollution filters, while London plane, silver maple and honey locust ranked above average too, according to Jun Yang, an urban ecologist at the Center for Earth System Science, Tsinghua University in Beijing. (bbc.com)
  • If you have the opportunity to give input for city-wide greenery initiatives, be aware that taller species of trees can trap pollutants in areas, so sometimes shrubs are better when narrow streets are surrounded by tall buildings. 
  • If you do have a large property or even a city park to design, remember to diversify the species so that certain pests or adverse conditions like too much or too little rain will not wipe out the whole property.  

In all, green spaces mean gold stars for your heart health, so it’s time to start seeing green!

Photo by Pankaj Shah on Unsplash

Did you know that there is a science called “Building Biology”?

Did you know that there is a science called “Building Biology”?

In my quest one day to find individuals who are qualified to give advice on healthy homes, I ran across this term: Building Biology.  Building Biology is a building philosophy and science that originated in Germany in the early 1960’s, as “Bau-Biologie”.(econesthomes.com)  World War II forced a massive rebuilding effort in Europe and many buildings proved to be unhealthy for their residents.  Europeans realized, before North Americans, that residents’ health is very dependent on the health of their homes, so they incorporated 25 principles of nurturing environments into this field of study.  Indeed, one can see that if they followed all 25 principles, there would be no reason for ill health due to the home or its location!  It’s a holistic approach to building. 

Holistic is “characterized by comprehension of the parts of something as intimately interconnected and explicable only by reference to the whole.” (Oxford Languages)  In theory, it is a very sound practice to look at the “whole” rather than just the parts!   However in the US, “holistic” often has a bad connotation.  For instance, the term “holistic medicine” is often heard in national media sources to sarcastically or derisively describe all manner of “folk remedy" health care choices that don't usually involve actual MDs. (quora.com)  In a country of doctors who are mainly paid by insurance companies with clear financial incentives, holistic doctors tend to be in the minority.  For the same financial reasons, holistic homebuilding is in the minority as homeowners seek to build the best-looking (but not necessarily healthiest) home for their budget, and rising material costs may force builders to cut corners in material quality. (infotel.ca)  In defense of the “science” of Building Biology, there are specific test methods and evaluation guidelines used by Building Biologists.  “Building biology is science because it creates knowledge, practical to apply, practical to use knowledge, because building biology pursues research, finds facts, informs, and uncovers the truth. Building Biology Testing Methods are objective, transparent, reproducible, science-based. Knowledge forms the basis for change, improvement. Frequently, building biology ideas and pioneering projects have paved the way for necessary and long overdue scientific research. Frequently, building biology creativity and courage to bring up painful subjects have led to more sensible and compatible industrial products that protect humans and the environment. All activities within the framework of Building Biology Testing Methods are based on human needs and the nature, not the industry, not politics, not exposure limits or regulations, not the public health office, not research that got lost in too much theory and tangled in dubious ties. We building biology professionals are independent and do not care about science when science loses sight of humans and nature, when incalculable risks are generously accepted, when it turns into a wish foundation for an insatiable industry. Building biology is an essential addition to science, blazing a trail for research. Building biology blows life, especially with practical relevance, into orthodox science.” (Questions about the Standard of Building Biology Testing Methods and the Building Biology Evaluation Guidelines)

There are many of the 25 principles that relate to Healthy Indoor Air, a main focus for us at HypoAir.  We’ve written on these extensively without referring to Building Biology, but we’re definitely in agreement that a holistic approach is the best one when it comes to your health.  It all depends on your priorities.  If you have an overarching goal to make your home as healthy as possible, using materials and methods that mimic the good parts of the outdoors, then we’ve found it will positively affect your health!  Compromises need to be carefully weighed before a major investment, because sometimes it’s very difficult to regain health when a poor decision is made.  Many leaders in the fields of holistic medicine and mold sickness, just to name a few, have past stories of poor health due to living situations that forced them to make radical changes and research to resolve and heal.

How different are these principles from the typical “green buildings” of today?

Many green building principles would align with Building Biology principles.  Take these three Building Biology principles: 

  • Strive for a well-balanced ratio between thermal insulation and heat retention as well as indoor surface and air temperatures

  • Use humidity-buffering materials

  • Keep the moisture content of new construction as low as possible

However, the methods of achieving them are very different.  Traditional green building would use non-toxic modern materials to include vapor and air barriers to prevent moisture ingress.   Building Biology prefers breathable walls via Mass Wall Construction for the building envelope.  “Alternative natural materials such as earth and straw or certain types of manufactured blocks have the ability to buffer large amounts of moisture. These historically derived methods of construction differ from standard cavity wall construction techniques in that manufactured vapor barriers are not installed to retard the flow of vapor through the walls. Instead vapor is allowed to naturally flow through the massive walls. Because temperature change in the flow-through process occurs very slowly and because these hygroscopic materials such as wood and clay have the ability to adsorb and desorb large amounts of moisture without deteriorating, accumulation from condensation is insignificant. When a home is properly constructed using these mass wall techniques it will be an extremely comfortable environment with a high degree of temperature and humidity stability. Furthermore, because the solid walls themselves provide insulation and can be finished with a covering of plaster or furred-out wood applied directly to them, the need for synthetic exterior sheathing, batt insulation, gypsum board, joint fillers, and paint is eliminated. Many volatile organic compound (VOC) contamination sources are thereby eliminated as well.” (Permeable Walls and Moisture Control Factsheet)

In addition, Building Biology principles include areas in which the typical homeowner does not invest a lot of thought, but are very important to our health, like the water system.  This may be because many homes are now built with community water systems, or bottled drinking water is readily accessible, but these “systems” do not guarantee protection from Microbial, Inorganic (includes lead, asbestos), Organic (other than microbial), and Pesticides and Herbicides contaminants.  Building Biology addresses each of these contaminants with best healthy practices to eliminate them. (Water Purity Factsheet)

But what does it cost to adopt these principles into our dwellings in terms of money and time?

Like any other field, there are certified experts for hire to help you navigate healthy home choices, whether you are planning to build a home, remodel, or just find a new rental.  If you don’t have the budget to hire an expert, you can educate yourself via free videos, free fact sheets, and free downloads (BuildingBiologyInstitute.org).  

For a consultation, here are a few Building Biologist certified experts:

Because homes constructed on Building Biology principles have sustainability and health goals, some methods of construction are uncommon and some take longer than the usual quick-frame timber/vinyl siding style.  For example, EcoNest Homes in Oregon emphasizes building “Living Sanctuaries of Clay, Straw and Timber”.  However, having dabbled in the construction/remodeling industry myself, there is a very true saying: You can have two out of three, but not three out of three, of the following:

  • Good

  • Fast

  • Cheap

Good and Fast will not be Cheap.  Fast and Cheap will not be Good.   Good and Cheap will not be Fast.  However, if you want to abide by Building Biology, just keep “Good” as one of the non-negotiables by abiding by as many of their principles as possible, and you can achieve a healthy home!   This is one of my concerns: that everyone should have access to healthy housing, not just the rich.  In agreement with this concern, buildingbiology.com states that building biology “aspires to become the foundation of everyday building activities, not just a luxury for a few”, and “includes all relevant costs up front, not passing them on to future generations and the environment.”  

These are principles to live by!  

Photo by chi m on Unsplash

How droughts can even impact your air

How droughts can even impact your air

It’s been an unusual year.  In the southeast US, temperatures have been above normal with extended periods of no rain.  In the west, Lake Mead and Lake Powell have lowered by nearly 75% of where lake levels once were as the country's two largest reservoirs.  The Colorado River, which supplies these lakes, is used by seven surrounding states, and for decades annually the region was taking out about 1 million acre-feet of water more than the river was providing (Los Angeles Times).  Much of the country is in drought, and the Southwest is experiencing a megadrought–one it has not seen in 1,200 years. 

What is drought?  Drought arises only after a prolonged (>week) period of precipitation shortage that causes soil to dry up, and these period(s) may reoccur monthly.  Further, the prominent feature of drought is water deficit in both the atmosphere and the land component (e.g., soil and vegetation), resulting from the combination of precipitation shortage and increasing evapotranspirative water loss driven in part by high temperatures.   (2017 study).  When drought hits home, it’s more than water restrictions on your lawn. Here are some of the effects: 

  • Droughts increase ozone and PM2.5. A study released in 2017 examined air quality during 4 severe droughts and found that elevated ozone and PM2.5 are attributed to the combined effects of drought on deposition, natural emissions (wildfires, biogenic volatile organic compounds (BVOCs), and dust), and chemistry. In our post “It’s not the heat, it’s the humidity air pollution”,we noted the correlation between extreme heat and ozone.  Here are some other facts brought forth by the 2017 study: 

    • Meteorological conditions/extremes likely to co-occur with drought that are also associated with higher pollution levels. For example, high ozone is more likely to occur with high temperature and low RH (2016 study; 2017 study, 2016 study 2)

    • more frequent stagnation and heat waves could explain up to 40 % of the ozone and PM2.5 enhancements during drought

    • Since anthropogenic sources of ozone and PM2.5 have decreased significantly since 1990, the ozone and PM2.5 enhancements during drought are largely responses of natural processes from the land biosphere and abnormal atmospheric conditions. 

  • Droughts affect plants and their interaction with atmospheric ozone in complicated ways.  Some plants take in ground-level ozone, while other plants emit isoprene, a VOC that reacts with other atmospheric chemicals to create ozone. (Scientific American).  While studying the 2011-2015 drought in California, scientists found that: 

    • Dry conditions caused the plants to restrict water loss by closing their stomata (pores), which means taking in less ozone (ozone levels rose). Absorption did drop by about 15% during the most severe years of the drought.

    • Plants and trees were able to sustain isoprene production during the first three years by drawing on their carbon stores; isoprene helps them against heat stress. 

    • After 4 years, isoprene production dropped, and so did ozone (by 20%).  

  • Drying lakebeds (like the Great Salt Lake in Utah) expose people to toxic elements like arsenic when dust storms pick up lake bed dust, which are residuals of pesticides and agricultural chemicals that migrated into the lake over many decades.. (New York Times)  Another dried lake that causes air quality problems is Owens Lake in California, which is the country’s largest source of PM10 (geochange.er.gov).

  • Droughts can increase transmission of soil and dust-transmitted diseases like Valley Fever, which is coccidiodomycosis (Cocci for short).  Dust that is liberated from the soil during digging activities or dry, windy conditions can carry the fungus, which workers or residents can breathe in.  It causes symptoms like fever, cough and tiredness, but can occasionally be serious or deadly.

  • Trees and plants weakened by drought are more vulnerable to pests and disease, which can kill large numbers of them. Plants that succumb to drought and die cause several problems:

    • they turn from absorbing ozone and CO2 to emitting carbon via CO2.  

    • Dead plants and trees increase the risk of wildfires.

  • Droughts impact electric power generation systems (the Grid)in the following ways (americanscientist.org):

    • Hydropower is reduced because of low stream flow

    • Demand for electricity increases because increased cooling is needed in homes and offices 

    • Fossil-fuel plants (coal, natural gas) must increase production of electricity.

    • This means that air pollution increases during drought due to our electric power generation system. IF changes can be made to shift to “cleaner” generators (ie. natural gas instead of coal) during drought, it is generally better for air quality. 

In all, drought is a serious, complicated blight on both the land and the air, which we at HypoAir have felt for some time because California has been in long-term drought.  Finding ways to reduce water and energy consumption helps everyone, so don’t wait until regulations forces change–here’s a list of ways you can help your community and family before and during drought.  However, it’s the unseen increases in ozone, PM2.5, fungus and other forms of air pollution for which the public generally doesn’t prepare.  Here are some ways you can be smarter about air pollution from drought:

  • Continue to work on air sealing your home

  • Have extra MERV 13 furnace filters, air purifier filters, and filter media on hand so that you can change these more frequently

  • Have N95 respirators on hand for the immune-impaired who need to go outside 

  • Be cautious about excavation and construction work in areas where Valley Fever is a risk (wear an N95 mask if necessary)

Photo by redcharlie on Unsplash

What’s the difference between EMMA and ERMI?

What’s the difference between EMMA and ERMI?

Maybe EMMA and ERMI sound like children’s story characters, but no, we’re talking about mold testing!   RealTime Laboratories was founded in Texas in 2005 by two doctors who had been researching and collaborating since their meeting in medical school.  Dr. Bolton is a board-certified anesthesiologist and was a doctor with the U.S. Navy for 12 years, as well as practicing privately and with the U.S. Department of Veterans’ Affairs.  He investigated the circumstances of his friend’s mother’s sudden death, whose heart stopped although she was in relatively good health.  The woman’s house was full of mold.  Dr. Bolton’s wife also suffered from sinus and ear problems, most likely from the gym where she worked out (nadallas.com) At RealTime Laboratories, Dr. Bolton and Dr. Hooper developed proprietary testing for the 16 most common, dangerous mycotoxins in patients’ bodies, homes and pets, so that they could recover their homes and lives from these poisons.  EMMA (Environmental Mold and Mycotoxin Assessment) is one of these tests, and it tests for 10 of the most toxigenic molds (including “Black Mold” or Stachybotrys) as well as the presence of 16 of the most dangerous mycotoxins produced by those 10 molds, using provided swab and gauze or a sample of your HVAC filter. (realtimelab.com)

In contrast, ERMI (Environmental Readiness Moldiness Test) was developed by the EPA as a research tool, to investigate the relative moldiness of a home.  ERMI uses the analysis of settled dust in homes and buildings to determine the concentrations of the DNA of the different species of molds.  (survivingmold.com)  In other words, ERMI gives a sense of the concentration of various molds, but does not test for the poisonous mycotoxins they emit. ERMI was developed as a research tool only, and although ERMI testing is widely available by independent labs, it has not been validated for routine public use in homes, schools or other buildings.  It was criticized by the EPA’s own Office of Inpector General in a report titled, “Public May Be Making Indoor Mold Cleanup Decisions Based on EPA Tool Developed Only for Research Applications.”  Some of the shortfalls of ERMI collection practices and analysis are listed in this report

Here is a summary of the differences between EMMA and ERMI (source: presentation by Dr. Matt Pratt-Hyatt):

Realtime Laboratories is certified under Clinical Laboratory Improvement Amendments of 1988 (CLIA) and College of American Pathologists (CAP) to perform EMMA testing, which most importantly focuses on the molds AND the mycotoxins they produce.  The company has produced a table of which mycotoxins are associated with which mold, and the symptoms and illnesses caused by them.  Here is a portion of the table:

Mycotoxin testing in the body is what may be foremost to patients.  This lab offers urine sample testing of those same 16 mycotoxins using ELISA-based testing, which stands for enzyme-linked immunoassay. It is a commonly used laboratory test to detect antibodies in the blood. (medlineplus.gov).  (Inclusive in the mycotoxin test, RealTime Labs was granted a patent for its macrocyclic trichothecene test (tricothecenes can be produced by the molds Fusarium, Stachybotrys, Tricothecium and Myrothecium)).  Also, RealTime Labs offers a MycoDART-PCR test of the blood (must be ordered by a doctor) to determine if the patient has been colonized by mold.  According to Dr. Matt Pratt-Hyatt, 1 in 3 mold illness patients is colonized with mold.   If detectable levels of mycotoxins are found:

  • In the body: the patient can choose to start treatment with a doctor in their area (list on the website).  Treatment and monitoring continues until mycotoxins are below detectable limits in the tests.  

  • In the home: the patient can contact environmental remediation services to pinpoint the source (the test does not pinpoint the source) and remove mold from their home.  

Recovery from mold exposure and mold illness really needs to have this dual approach, because if the patient is treated without remediation of the home, then continued exposure will not allow recovery!  Remediation of the home is great, but it could take much longer for the patient to recover if their natural defenses, like glutathione, remain depleted.  Want to know whether you or your home have been “sickened” by mold?  Get tested! 

Photo by Sandy Millar on Unsplash

Fiberglass: the air quality problem you didn’t consider

Fiberglass: the air quality problem you didn’t consider

With extreme weather issues such as storms and fires in the news, we can become very focused on mold from water damage and particulate matter (PM) from air pollution like smoke, but another problem has been silently causing lung and whole-body issues for decades: fiberglass insulation.

Fiberglass insulation, also known as glass wool, was accidentally invented in the 1930’s and patented in 1938 as Fiberglas.  It became a popular insulation for building and comes in batts, with a paper or plastic backing, or is available in loose form in bags, that can be blown into place.  Now fiberglass is used in: 

  • Appliances like dishwashers, refrigerators, ovens, exhaust fans, clothes dryers
  • Kerosene heaters and wood-burning stoves
  • roof shingles
  • Beds (also known as a silica sock)
  • Cigarette filters
  • HEPA and HVAC filters
  • Light fixtures
  • Carpets
  • Packing tape
  • And even some brands of toothpaste!

Children may be especially vulnerable to potential effects from fiberglass particle inhalation. “We’ve seen a substantial increase in air quality concerns from homeowners with young children experiencing chronic cough and eye irritation,” says Jeffrey Bradley, president of IndoorDoctor LLC. Bradley says fiberglass is often the culprit. (iqair.com)

Like most materials, fiberglass insulation degrades over time, and water speeds up the degradation process.  Therefore, although blown-in insulation is a popular choice for insulating attics and walls, leaving fiberglass exposed to humid air can cause the fibers to break and become airborne.  Typically, most manufacturers warn about wearing masks if you manually “disturb” the insulation by pushing past it or cutting into it.  However, loose fiberglass that is exposed to air currents can pick up these small fibers without manual disturbance, resulting in unhealthy PM2.5 levels in homes where it gets entrained into the air conditioning system.  

One woman has detailed her family’s project to remove all the fiberglass from their house after it was determined that fiberglass dust was making her sick.  Fiberglassawareness.com is a very useful website with many photos of where fiberglass is used in homes, and even cars and other buildings where you may not suspect it.  That pink (or yellow or white or green) stuff that you thought remained in the attic, doesn’t always stay where it belongs!  Wherever you can see exposed fiberglass, it may be emitting small particles into the air.  That means if it is peeking out of the ends of wrapped ducts, or falling (sometimes imperceptibly) out of can light fixtures, or being sucked into your AC system through small leaks in the ducts, it is in the air you breathe and can cause a myriad of health issues.  This page details a long list of fiberglass-exposure symptoms which overlap with mold-exposure symptoms, fibromyalgia symptoms, and auto-immune disorder symptoms, so the main culprit can be hard to diagnose.  In addition, many fiberglass insulation products use:

  • Phenol formaldehyde to bind the fiberglass fibers together (iqair.com), and the off-gassing of formaldehyde can cause similar symptoms. Formaldehyde is a carcinogen and exposure to fiberglass insulation formaldehyde causes brain cancer. According to John D. Spengler et.al., in the "Indoor Air Quality Handbook," residents of mobile homes who are exposed to fiberglass insulation are at increased risk of brain cancer. 
  • Styrene or Vinyl-Benzene is found in fiberglass insulation, and because benzene is used in many home other consumer products like water bottles, convenience food trays and wrappers, and feminine products, it contributes to a thick low-lying VOC cloud in some homes. According to Teresa Holler in the book "Holler for Your Health," styrene is toxic to the nervous system and exposure to styrene in fiberglass insulation causes behavioral changes, concentration problems, depression, tiredness, headaches, memory problems and weakness.  According to Andre E. Baert in the book "Biomedical and Health Research," long-term exposure to styrene in fiberglass insulation causes brain tumors and cancer. (ehow.com)
  • Methyl-ethyl-ketone (MEK) is used as a binder in some fiberglass.  Nick H. Proctor et.al., in the book "Proctor and Hughes' Chemical Hazards of the Workplace," list methyl ethyl ketone as a neurotoxin and exposure to MEK in fiberglass insulation as a cause for dizziness, nausea, headaches, depression and unconsciousness. (ehow.com)

According to the California Department of Public Health, frequent exposure to fiberglass insulation causes permanent changes in the central nervous system, the symptoms of which include personality changes, poor coordination, fatigue and poor concentration.(ehow.com)

How do you get rid of fiberglass in the air?  In some cases “encapsulation” can be an answer, which means that you can add a layer of protection over it.  We should never see exposed fiberglass (the brown paper side is supposed to be installed on the “warm” side, which in southern climates leaves the fiberglass exposed to the inside of the attic).  This real estate inspector wrote an article on encapsulation from the point of view that fiberglass is a poor air barrier and therefore should have a proper air barrier on both sides.  However, he notes at the end that a homeowner should not try to encapsulate any fiberglass himself, because of the risk of causing mold if moisture cannot escape.  

Here’s how you can minimize your exposure to fiberglass: 

  • Repair damaged sections of fiberglass insulation with proper foil duct tape.
  • If you have blown-in fiberglass in your attic or walls, seal all penetrations such as ceiling fixtures, wire and plumbing penetrations, light switches, and cracks in drywall
  • Check the internal condition of any “duct board” ducts or ducts internally insulated with fiberglass.  Unfortunately these degrade over time and cause the fibers to become entrained in the air.
  • If your health issues have not resolved, consider removing some or all of the fiberglass that could be causing them. 
  • Replace fiberglass insulation with ducts that are insulated with air bubble wrap, and walls and ceiling insulation with spray foam or cellulose insulation (however, be aware that cellulose insulation is treated with fire retardants to make it safe, which can cause other health issues to those who are sensitive). (nachi.org)

If you know or suspect that your health problems are being caused by fiberglass or VOCs that come from the fiberglass, keep a journal of how you feel during the day at different times, including where you are, what you are doing,  if the building’s HVAC is running, what you are wearing, eating, working with, etc.  It’s possible that you can find the link by putting the pieces together from your experiences, and from others’ experiences.  Research sites of others with environmental and chemical sensitivities, such as Fiberglassawareness.com, mychemicalfreehouse.net, and nontoxicforhealth.com (the latter two have a lot of scientific research on them), and don’t give up! 

What kind of air conditioner do you have?

What kind of air conditioner do you have?

An air conditioning system is certainly not the most interesting equipment that you choose for your home, or that comes with an existing home you buy.  It either works well, or it doesn’t, right?  Unfortunately it’s the ones that don’t work well that get noticed!  Depending on the size of home, configuration and budget, there are about 7 different types that may be used.  Here’s how to tell what kind of unit you have, and what kind you may want to upgrade to in the future!

Before talking about all the different types, however, let’s go over the basic parts of an air conditioner by looking at one of the most compact and common versions, a window air conditioner. 

(diagram source: studentlesson.com)

The components of a window air conditioner can be found in most other systems.  To start, note that the outside air and the inside air don’t mix.  Indoor air stays inside and outdoor air stays outside; it’s the refrigerant in the coils that goes back and forth, transferring heat from indoor air to the outside air.  Let’s start with warm indoor air.  In this diagram, it’s sucked into the unit from the right (“Indoor Air” red line), via a squirrel-cage blower (circular cage), and blown over the cooling coils (blue line going back and forth), making the air cool.  The air is blown out the front of the unit and voila!  The room becomes cooler.  What happened to the heat from the air?  Here it’s useful to show another diagram, which is of the refrigerant system only.  

(diagram source: swtc.edu)

Once you understand this inside/outside, low-pressure/high-pressure system, you will be able to understand most of the common refrigeration systems!  The heat of the inside air was absorbed by the refrigerant in the cooling coils (see left side of diagram).  The cooling coils are also called the evaporator, because inside the cooling coils, the refrigerant changes from a liquid to a gas (evaporates) with the addition of the heat of the inside air. Once the refrigerant passes all the way through the evaporator, it is drawn outside by the compressor, which changes it from a warm gas to an even hotter gas.  The hot gas will then pass through the condenser, which is another set of coils over which a fan blows outside air.  When heat is drawn from the gas, it turns into a liquid again (upper right side of the diagram).  Before passing to the evaporator again, it must flow through the expansion valve, which is a very important part of the air conditioner.  The expansion valve gets a signal from the temperature sensing bulb (first diagram), and only lets a small portion of the hot pressurized gas into the evaporator as needed, creating a low pressure area on the cooling side.  Then we have completed the cooling cycle, and the refrigerant makes another loop while the fans serve to transfer heat to the air on each side of the window.  

Central Air Conditioning uses all of these basic components, serves multiple rooms in a home, and can be categorized into two types: Split and Package.  The main difference between these two is the location of the evaporator.   In addition, central air conditioning can be used for heating if it uses a heat pump.  (see the section at the end to learn a little more about heat pumps).

  • Package units are very much like window air conditioners because the compressor, condenser and evaporator are all in one outside unit (B below).  Sometimes you can recognize a package unit if there is a large metal duct running from the unit into the home (sometimes, like in the diagram, the duct is hidden behind the unit).  Commercial rooftop units (A below) are often package units.  The advantage of these is that all of the noise and heat of the air handler is outside and the unit comes ready to be attached to the ductwork. 

(source diagram: refrigeratordiagrams.com)

  • Split units have the compressor and condenser located outside (unlabeled unit to the left below), while the evaporator/air handler is located inside.  Normally the evaporator/air handler is located in a closet, garage, attic or crawl space.  From this point the cooled air is distributed throughout the home via supply ductwork.  

Source diagram: thisoldhouse.com

Mini-Split systems are a takeoff of “central split systems” in that the evaporator is located inside, but air distribution ducts are eliminated.  For this reason, mini-splits are also called ductless systems, and because air ducts can be a source of energy loss, they are more efficient.  They used to supply refrigerant to only 1 evaporator (1 room), but modern units (Carrier for example) can supply refrigerant to up to 9 rooms. (thisoldhouse.com)  Instead of circulating cooled air through ducts, the refrigerant is sent into the home to small concealed or wall-, ceiling- or floor-mounted evaporator/fan systems.  It is a good solution for remodels and additions: instead of adding more ductwork or replacing a huge central unit that may be too small to serve the addition, add a mini-split to serve the new area.  Mini-splits can also be heat pumps to heat the area during winter (see section at end on heat pumps).

Mini-Split diagram source: armstrongair.com

Finally, portable air conditioners (PACs) are just that: you can move them from room to room easily, and even store them in a closet when not in use, because they are usually on casters.  Portable air conditioners are a type of “package” unit because the evaporator, compressor and condenser are all located in one unit, but it is inside.  In order to extract and remove all that heat, there are one or two hoses coming out of the unit, which must be run through a window or other opening.  If the unit only has one hose, the unit is sucking air from the room it’s cooling, running it over the condenser, and expelling it outside.  This creates a slight negative pressure in the room, in turn pulling un-conditioned air from any cracks and crevices in the room’s envelope.  Dual-hose units pull in outside air to cool the condenser, pushing it back out via the other hose, which is more efficient but can be a little more expensive and possibly more noisy.  In general, PACs are less efficient than window air conditioners, but their convenience to use (especially in climates where they are only needed several days of the year) makes them popular.  

source: whirlpool.com

Heat pumps: We mentioned that central air and mini-splits have the ability to heat as well as cool.  By reversing the flow of refrigerant, heat can be extracted from the air outside and carried inside.  These work well in mild climates that have temperate winters that don’t go much below 40 deg F.  

Source diagram: thisoldhouse.com

Purification that works with your air conditioner

What types of purifiers do we recommend with these different types of air conditioners?  We’re glad you asked!  Here is a table explaining what’s available:

 

Type of Air Conditioner

Type of Air Purifier

Central Package unit

Whole-Home Purifier

Central Split unit

Whole-Home Purifier

Mini-Split

Air Angels + Germ Defenders

Window

Air Angels + Germ Defenders

Portable

Air Angels + Germ Defenders

 

Of course, Air Angels and Germ Defenders are great portable solutions that you can use in any room even if you are also using a whole-home purifier, and HEPA units are also useful in high-dust or allergy-prone areas.  The Cleanroom WindPRO 650 is a great option for a large open space, with its electrostatic filter (can be washed) and carbon filtration against VOCs and odors. 

Although central air conditioning is very common, there are even more efficient ways to keep your home cool.  If you are planning a new home, consider geothermal cooling and heating, and High-Velocity Mini-Duct Systems are great for retrofits and older homes, because the small duct size can be aesthetically pleasing.   Whichever system you choose, make sure to do the best you can to seal the building envelope to prevent moisture, mold and dust issues.   Remember, temperature is just one factor of your healthy home climate!

HVAC Filter Monitors–Can they really optimize your filter life?

HVAC Filter Monitors–Can they really optimize your filter life?

Most people are NOT like my mother, including me!  She always does the laundry on Monday, changes the smoke alarm batteries on the Daylight Savings dates, and changes the HVAC filters on the same day every month.  These are predictable, safe things to do, and are probably one of the reasons she gets great insurance rates and her home looks nice whenever you drop in.  Younger generations like myself like to “optimize” but sometimes that gets us in trouble: in my case someone else has claimed the laundry room with their clothes for several hours exactly when I run out of clean clothes, smoke alarms start chirping in the middle of the night when I have guests, and on the day I remember to check the AC filters, they are very dirty and I have no replacements on hand.  I do well with alarms, however, as long as they think like I do (optimize) and  I have some “margin” to rectify the situation.  

What do I mean by “optimizing”?  The problem with changing your AC filter on the same day every month is that not every month is the same, meaning that there may be some filter life remaining at the end of the month.  April in the Southeast US can be very pleasant with very little “air conditioning” required, while July is–you guessed it–like a swamp.  Of course the AC will be running 31 days in July, but not so much in April.  I don’t want to throw out a filter that looks almost new, just to be on schedule, but…how will I know when it’s full of dust and contaminants?  That’s the question.  “Optimizing” to me means getting the most out of whatever I use, whether its the AC filter or the toothpaste tube (flatten that sucker!).  The traditional “Filter” light and reset button on my thermostat that will cause the light to come on 30 days later are NOT optimizing the filter.  That’s just a blind schedule.  So, let’s talk about how newer HVAC filter monitors work!

Temperature: Rittal makes many products, including air conditioners for residential and industrial use.  They have a filter monitor that uses the change in temperature over the air coil to judge filter life.  When the change in temperature (delta T) becomes too high, this indicates a clogged filter.  I haven’t found any standalone residential products that use delta T to monitor filter life, however.

Light:  HVAC filters are porous, obviously.  They let air pass through and they also let light pass through.  An optical monitor can take a “baseline” measurement of how much light passes through when the filter is new and clean, and when the light becomes too occluded, it will notify you because this means the filter is dirty.  Simple concept!   Filter Pulse HVAC Indoor Air Filter Monitor (starts at $66) is one such product.  It can be ordered with brackets to fit up to 5” filters, and the power source is either battery or 24V AC power.   This technology allows it to be used even with new variable-speed blowers, because the variable pressures in these systems will not affect the light sensing technology. 

Pressure drop:  This is the traditional method of determining when your AC filter is dirty, because as dust and contaminants are deposited on your filter, the little “holes” that allow air to pass through become plugged, and the pressure will be higher on the inlet of the filter and lower at the outlet of the filter.  The pressure differential between inlet and outlet will become greater.  Some HVAC techs will recommend that when the dirty filter pressure drop is close to double of that of the initial/clean filter pressure drop, it’s time to change the filter (John Semmelhack, ComfortSquad.us).  However, pressure drop monitors will not work with newer variable-speed blowers, because lowering the speed of the blower (which automatically happens) will decrease the pressure differential.  Thus it may give a false “clean” reading when operating with a variable speed blower.

Here are some low and high-tech indicators of pressure drop:

  • Simple analog gauge: This gauge can be set with a clean filter and shows the pressure increase until the needle lands in the “change your filter” range.  At $10, this is a very inexpensive way to upgrade your filter-changing schedule. 
  • FilterScan CleanAlert Smart Air Filter Monitor ($60) has a microprocessor that interprets the pressure differentials and via WiFi, can send you a text message that the filter needs to be changed.  It does, however, need to be hard-wired directly to a 24v power supply, and several customers reviewing it said that this was out of their expertise (DIYers) so it may need to be installed by an HVAC tech.
  • Go with a “Smart” Filter:  Filtrete has several types of smart filters that measure pressure differentials and are bluetooth enabled, so that you can monitor filter life from a free app on your smartphone.  When you set the app to connect with Amazon Dash replenishment, you won’t run out of clean filters, either!

Air Flow: Some manufacturers suggest relying on airflow rates to give the true picture of filter status, because measurable pressure drop and temperature climb can come later, when the equipment is about to be damaged.  DPSTelecom and Setra are two of many companies that make air flow sensors but alas, they are mostly used for commercial or industrial systems.  In addition, monitoring a filter via airflow will not work in variable speed air handler systems because airflow will be variable as well. 

Based on the many dirty filters out there and the small number of monitoring products for residential use, we think that HVAC filter monitoring is an underserved market.  If you find another good solution to this problem, let us know!

Photo by Crystal Kwok on Unsplash

What is Third-Hand Smoke? Is it Dangerous?

What is Third-Hand Smoke?  Is it Dangerous?

Smoke smells take a long time to dissipate.  I have bought wooden furniture, clothing, an SUV, and a couch from smokers (with months to years between these purchases) and I remember thinking at the time, this is not too bad.  This thought probably occurred after my sense of smell had already been deadened in the smoker’s home.  Then, I put the item in my car (or drove the SUV home) and thought, Ok, I just need to air it out well. Then, I got to my non-smoking home and realized WOW!  It was bad.  What do I need to do now?  Throw it out?  I gave the couch away to another smoker, but I managed to "salvage" the other things.  That was before I knew about the dangers of third-hand smoke.

For someone who is conditioned to recycle and reuse, throwing an item away may seem like an extreme measure, but you should consider what is making the smell.  It’s called third-hand smoke.  Smoke released in a room or car contains toxic chemicals like nicotine that cling to and penetrate walls, clothing, upholstery and other surfaces (mayoclinic.org). Results of a study published in 2010 found that when this nicotine reacts with nitrous acid in the air, it forms carcinogens, which are compounds that can cause cancer. (health.clevelandclinic.org)  It’s not clear how much damage third-hand smoke does to our bodies, but it can cause DNA breaks and is thought to be more dangerous to children.  Clearing third-hand smoke is not as easy as wiping down and airing out the item, because the “off-gassing” may occur over years. 

Sadly, we often have clients who need help dealing with smoke clean-up.  Here are some examples of how to clean smoke-contaminated items:

Ozone generators: Ozone is a proven way to remove smoke from surfaces and even within soft furnishings.  For years, hotels and auto detailers have relied on ozone generators to remove smoke from hotel rooms and cars quickly (in a matter of hours).  Because there are three oxygen atoms in an ozone molecule, it is unstable, and the extra oxygen molecule will break away and bind to other molecules, converting them to safer, less odorous molecules.  In the high concentrations that are needed to remove smells, the EPA warns that ozone can cause damage to our health, plants, rubber, electrical wire coatings, fabrics, and the dyes and pigments in some artwork.  Therefore, it’s not safe to breathe and should only be used for 2-4 hours and then the space sealed off for some time before ventilation (up to several days for maximum effect). (It’s tough to get rid of cigarette smells, but an ozone treatment can do it)

To get the most effectiveness out of the ozone treatment, all surfaces in the room or car should be thoroughly cleaned first, then you can use an ozone generator like this one to finish the smoke removal in small spaces.  The end of this video describes the safe use of the ozone generator in a car.

Vehicles:  Like couches and furniture, seat cushions don’t give up the smell very easily.  Here is an excellent video that recommends Citrol 266 used in a specific way to remove smoke permanently from fabric (but it's NOT for use on plastics).  

It’s important to realize that when the car ventilation is running, smoke can pollute the cabin air filter.  It’s best to replace the filter with a new one.

If the item is small and relatively inexpensive, you could consider tossing it and accepting the loss.  However, whole homes can be contaminated with third-hand smoke, and although costly, rehabilitation is quite possible.  

  • Carpeting and drapery is sometimes successfully cleaned with Citrol 266 at a 10:1 dilution (see video for application tips–don’t use on wood or plastics), or by using an ozone generator.  If not, these soft items should be removed and discarded because the chemicals from the smoke have penetrated to the padding, which is not accessible.
  • If removing and replacing the drywall is not an option, walls can be painted to seal in the odor by carefully cleaning and priming them before painting.  This article gives advice from a professional painter on painting smoke-impregnated walls.  He lists one non-toxic degreaser (Krud-Kutter), with an alternative more toxic one (TSP).  We would add that Earth Clean is an excellent non-toxic de-greaser that can be used on many other surfaces in the home even after the smoke is gone; the strength is customizable by adding water.  The primer (BIN) solvent completely evaporates and can be covered by any low-VOC paint.  
  • Ceilings can easily be overlooked, but they are just as (or more) smoke-absorbent than the walls!  If the ceiling is a popcorn ceiling or other decorative finish that is easily damaged by water and scrubbing, it's best to get professional help to remove it and resurface the drywall. Often popcorn texture was used to hide bad taping and floating jobs so you'll need help to get the ceiling looking good without this camouflage.
  • Hidden in your walls, ventilation ducts can hold a lot of third-hand smoke.  Particularly, the evaporator coil can trap dust and toxins, and is best cleaned by a technician (they can actually remove and clean it chemically).  This is different from cleaning the ducts alone.  If the ventilation ducts are internally insulated with fiberboard, this material is very difficult to clean safely, and the ducts may need to be replaced or encapsulated (sprayed with a coating that traps the toxins and prevents their release into the air).    
  • If you can clean the flooring with water and cleaner, it may take several rinses to get all of the nicotine and residual chemicals from the surface.  Vinegar can be helpful in this process, but again, non-toxic Earth Clean will lend professional strength to the job.  If the flooring cannot be cleaned by water, such as hardwoods, you can seal it with a number of safer products (see this article).  Professional remediation is possible but may require chemical stripping or sanding, which can release a lot of PM and VOCs.  As a last resort, you may need to budget flooring replacement! 
  • Finally, the insides of cupboards, undersides of tables, backsides of bookcases, insides of closets and mattresses are all overlooked places that smoke can hide.  Solid wood cupboards and furniture can be cleaned using Earth Clean also, but particle-board cupboards and furniture is likely to harbor even more smoke, and cleaning these with loads of water risks them soaking up water and becoming moldy. These places may be hard to clean but likely have a significant smoke reservoir.  If you can, adding a coat of sealer or primer (Earthpaint has a number of non-toxic sealers and primers) will finish the job.

It's all about thinking hard about where those wisps of smoke went and then going on a "seek and destroy" mission to eliminate them!

Photo by Daniele Fotia on Unsplash

Monitoring air quality for the sake of the youngest

Monitoring air quality for the sake of the youngest

There are so many things to avoid when you’re pregnant.  Alcohol and smoke are some of the top offenders, causing birth defects, neurodevelopmental disorders, pre-term birth and low birth weight.  Did you know that air pollution is also dangerous to expecting mothers and their infants?   

Of course, air pollution includes tobacco smoke, but it’s more than that.  Here are some of the other types of air pollution that pregnant women and newborns may be exposed to (marchofdimes.org):

  • Asbestos, carbon monoxide, ozone and radon
  • Chemicals (including cleaning product fumes) and smoke from factories
  • Dust, mold and pollen
  • Fumes from paint and strong chemicals

These pollutants can impact the lung development of a fetus, making them more susceptible to diseases and conditions like asthma and obesity later in life.  Here are some specific ways babies are impacted:

  • Both babies whose mothers smoke while pregnant and babies who are exposed to secondhand smoke after birth are more likely to die from sudden infant death syndrome (SIDS) than babies who are not exposed to cigarette smoke. (cdc.gov)
  • Pollution from vehicle traffic has many different toxins in it.  In particular, sulfur dioxide (SO2) is a big contributor to infant death according to a 2019 study in the UK and Wales.  The risk of infant death was 19% higher with increaseing SO2, compared with 7% higher with increased exposure to nitrogen dioxide (NO2) and 4% higher with increased exposure to PM10.   

There are several ways to protect yourself while pregnant, and your infant after they are born (UT Southwestern Medical Center).

  • Check outdoor air quality at airnow.gov and avoid being outside when the air quality is low.
  • Add an air purifier with HEPA filter to your home and/or office, because although inside is safer than outdoors on a low air quality day, pollution like PM2.5 infiltrates buildings that are not highly sealed.
  • Stay away from smoke, including second-hand, third-hand and wildfire smoke.  

Knowing what we do about indoor air pollution, here are some surprising sources of indoor air pollution:

  • Cooking: Fine particulates can cause your kitchen to have worse air quality than many cities when you are using the stove, oven and/or toaster!  Make sure to use a kitchen exhaust vent that exhausts outside while cooking, baking and for 30 minutes afterward while the stove cools down.
  • Cleaning: switch over to non-toxic products so that you’re not putting harmful VOCs and chemicals into the air and onto surfaces.  TotalClean is a multi-purpose wonder cleaner for non-toxic cleaning, odor and stain removal!
  • Candles:  Still incredibly popular, conventional candles can release a number of toxins including phthalates used in fragrance (an endocrine disruptor) and formaldehyde (a known carcinogen). (madesafe.org)  Try switching over to essential oil sprays and simmer pots to get the scent without the toxins (see our post).

Little lungs take time and clean air to develop properly, so it’s important to give them the best chance!

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